Central Vac Installation - Frequently Asked Questions
How difficult is a central vac to install?
Although it may not be quite as simple as installing a sprinkler
system, a central vacuum system is really quite easy to install. It
takes only one day or less for most homes.
What is the cost?
If you do it yourself, depending on the number of inlets and quality
of vacuum, the cost will be between $400 and $2000.
When should I install?
The pipes and wiring should be installed before the drywall is up
and as the electrical is finishing. You will want to protect the
interior of the pipe at the mounted backing plates while the
interior construction is being finished.
Can I install in an existing home?
These jobs can be quite easy! Central vacuum systems often use
closets, soffits, return air ducts, pantries, basements, stud bays,
and any other hidden spaces to run the pipe and wire.
How many inlet ports will I need?
A typical home needs approximately one inlet to cover 600 square
feet of living space. One inlet in a hallway can access two or three
bedrooms. Some modern homes only require one inlet in a central area
to cover 1400 square feet.
Where do inlets go?
Place all inlets away from doors, furniture, front door entry, or
other inconvenient locations. The small 2x4” hinged valves are
typically put at the same height as the electrical outlets in the
home. Some newer systems, including hide-a-hose, allow you to
put the outlets higher on the wall for more convenience.
What are kick-plates or automatic dustpans?
These are convenient vacuum ports available that turn on with your
foot. Broom sweep debris over to the floor level vacuum inlet in a
kitchen cabinet, for instance, and suction all the mess away without
ever bending over. These inlets are the hardest to install but can
bring a lot of satisfaction and save you a lot of work.
Can I have multiple users?
There is only one operator at a time for a vacuum unit unless you
have a really powerful central vac. Installation of multiple power
units is recommended for mandatory simultaneous users.
How do I cut and glue the PVC?
To avoid future clogs, cut the pipe with a tubing cutter (not a
hacksaw!) and make sure to remove all edge cut burrs. Glue the male
end only of the joint to prevent creating ridges inside the pipe
connection.
Routing and connecting pipe runs?
Use sweep elbows throughout the pipe run (but use a tight elbow at
the inlet valve) and always use (2) 45-degree bends for any offset
jogs instead of (2) 90-degree bends. The main runs can be under the
house or above in the attic. Minimize the amount of fittings
whenever possible.
Wiring the central vac system?
110 volt inlets connect the 24-volt activation switch wire for the
suction and a 110 volt connection in order to power an electric
power brush nozzle. An electrician can easily connect these 110 volt
wires to a nearby electric outlet. The two conductor 20-gauge
(18-gauge if over 150ft) low voltage wire should be strapped or
taped to the pipe every five feet all the way back to the power
unit. It can be spliced to other runs along the way. Inlets without
110 volts only have the low voltage wire.
Penetrating a firewall?
Check local building codes regarding the necessity of a steel pipe
or fire collar to penetrate the firewall if the power unit is
located in the garage.
Exhausting necessary?
Check for manufacturer recommendations concerning exhaust venting.
For dirty exhaust units, put the unit in an area which will not
cause an exhaust mess. Systems with adequate filtration do not need
venting. Exhausting can really reduce the noise of a central
vac in the garage. Otherwise the vacs can be really annoying
if someone is vacuuming in the house while you are trying to work in
the garage.
Back to top - Central Vac Frequently Asked Questions
Central Vac Installation - Existing Home
Central Vac Pipe Options (SCH40 vs Industry Standard)
Central Vac Installation Standards
Central Vacuum Types and Reviews